
Depending on where you stand, the term "free trade" either conjures up images of happy producers and manufacturers across the globe enjoying larger markets for their wares and creating a global village of inventory, or, if you're like me, sends a shudder up her spine as she contemplates how in the world workers in both the "first" and "third" world will be able to keep stable jobs.
With that said, there's been a lot in the news lately of textile trade barriers being lifted between China and the US (an artificial cap had limited the number of Chinese-made garments could be imported every year). Now that that has been done away with, many businesses are heralding this as a time for celebration--clothing prices will go down and US consumers will enjoy a plethora of cheaper manufactured goods. But wait! (pauses for dramatic effect)...Who really benefits?
Clothing becomes cheaper so that American families who's pocket books are stretched by rising gas prices, higher health insurance and medical costs, rising college tuition, and skyrocketing real estate can see some relief in clothing costs. The argument is also that those unlucky enough to live in poorer countries can enjoy the benefits of capitalism because they're getting good jobs--that it's really like a form of economic aid. But from the books I've read, it's really a "race to the bottom" in terms of how the clothing industry works: in search of ever cheaper labor, manufacturers pressure their contracted factories to have more output with less expense, or they can easily contract with yet another country/factory/area that is more desperate for work (and cheaper). Thanks to economic globalization and the lifting of "trade barriers", that is. And if you push the concept further, cheaper imported clothing actually *subsidizes* the high prices we pay in gas, etc., in that it pushes politicians to alieve everyone's pocket books by pushing for fewer trade barriers, rather than do something about health care and the oil industry. It's simply easier to scapegoat.
A really good book to read is
"Making Sweatshops" by Ellen Israel Rosen (pictured above) as it gives plenty of background on these issues and how almost no one benefits from this form of unfettered capitalism.
I've been thinking a lot lately about living wage issues and the decency of being able to provide for oneself off of the items that they make. For me, it's been really important being physically involved in every Anti-Factory item I sew. I worked as a graphic designer for almost 10 years, making "non-stuff"...Sure, there were physical printed items in the end, but for the most part it was a lot about style and knowing the right design programs. My artmaking is an even more rarified form of production, as when items are shown and sold through galleries, they get caught up in a very specific and insulated world of "art", most of it unaffordable to the average person. Anti-Factory seems to satisfy the part of me that wants the "general audience"--the folks like you and me who like to look at things, enjoy aesthetics and colors, and then choose to pay a "fair" wage for it.
So very little is made by just one person these days. Factory made is still technically "made by hand"--actually, MANY hands on an assembly line. The truth is, there's nothing wrong with factories. It's just more a matter of how they compensate and treat their workers. Let's not forget that those factories are made of real people, not machines. And when you see cheap clothing, either at the mall, outlet store, or chain store, you should become very very suspicious, perhaps even scared when you see how low the prices are going. Because someone, somewhere, is definitely getting *screwed*.
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