Espana!

Hey, I'm back! Spain was AMAZING (how could it not be???)...I actually got back two nights ago, but have been so jetlagged and feel like I'm coming down with a cold that I didn't feel like doing much. But what a whirlwind--five days in Madrid, most of it doing things related to the exhibition and hanging out with arts professionals from the Philippines who were also out for the show.

Basically, the show was of five centuries of Filipino art--way back from historical pre-colonial days all the way up to the 21st Century. It was really interesting to see everything in that giant context, and it was in an amazing gigantic old building (the Conde Duque Museum) which is in the old town. I stayed at the Hotel Conde Duque a few blocks away, a lovely 4-star hotel that they put us all up in.

The context for me was interesting: I had always been conscious that Spain was the seat of empire and the first colonial power in the Philippines. They've left their culture and architectural marks all over it, as well as a certain type of class structure that is still there. All this plus the sheer joy of being a 21st Century tourist from America was a backdrop for the trip.

The first day was about delivering my artwork to the gallery and having it installed. Then I was FREE for the next few days to just wander around and explore. I went to a bunch of lectures and panel discussions held in conjunction with the exhibition, ate tons of food, and got to know the Filipino artworld--sort of ironic that I was getting to know them in Spain since they were all flown out!

Where to start? Uh, I really should post these photos to flickr, but oh well, here they are, in long form!


The church adjacent to the Royal Palace in the old part of town--during sunset--aaaaaahhhhh!


Amor, yes amor. Love Spain, and there's a giant "love" in the park by the Prado...


One day I went around with my uncle John (right), who happened to also be there as a speaker for a lecture, and Richie, a University curator from the Philippines...here in front of the Reina Sofia.


Let me tell you, the new wing to the Reina Sofia (one of the major museums in the city) is totally STUNNING. They created a courtyard area by capping part of the outside of the building with a giant red roof with holes cut out and this giant Roy Lichtenstein sculpture at one side. It's hard to tell by this pic how big it is, but the sculpture is HUGE. Thus, the roof is HIGH...amazing!


the Reina Sofia Cafe is also stunning. This photo does not do it justice--there's a gigantic curvy red metal interior with windows, skylights, and a sinuous shape to the whole thing.


At the Prado, you could take pictures and it was great to see people outright "counterfeiting" from the old masters--ha ha!


more counterfeiting...


Valesquez's "Las Meninas"--the touchstone for me, as it was a centerpiece in my college art history classes. Not to mention Goya's Black Paintings (so great to see in person!). The Reina Sofia had a great contemporary work by artist Eve Sussman who recreated on film the few minutes before and after the moment depicted in "Las Meninas".


The entrance to the "Filipiniana" exhibition at the Conde Duque. More than 300 items and artworks were gathered for inclusion and a gorgeous catalog was made. The reason for my whole trip, this thing!


The gallery during intallation process. I love all the covered art, like under veils.


one of the preparators installing my work over a vitrine and to the right is a Manuel Ocampo painting.


more veiled artworks...


A view from one end of the gallery hall--a main corridor splits off into many rooms between each pillar...


At one end, starting the contemporary section, was a giant "bubble machine" by British/Filipino artist David Medalla, a seminal 1960s work...video projectors were all over the exhibition, used as exhibition text on the floor and showing video works.


The one-million-dollar 19th Century painting by Juan Luna that was shipped from the Philippines for the exhbition...It was laying out on a table waiting to be placed, with all these people rushing around it, and it was so tempting to touch it! This painting caused a scandal last year when the Philippine government bought it at a Sotheby's auction using the country's social security funds...ack!


Dinner after the exhibition started at 10pm (those Spaniards!) at a fancy restaurant by the gallery. Colleagues and artists are, left to right: (oops--forgot the first guy's name, let's move on...), Joselina Cruz, curator at the Singapore Museum; John Silva, director of the National Museum in the Philippines (and my uncle); Sid, artist and curator of the CCP Museum; Kristoffer, young artist and Madrid resident, and Richie, director of the Ateneo Gallery, Philippines.


Kris was so fabulous...as a Madrid-dweller, he took Richie and I out one night to the La Latina district, the lovely old part of town that has winding streets reminiscent of both Paris and Italy. Tons of cafes and eateries open late, bars with happy Spaniards, and the weather warm enough for t-shirts at midnight! Oh, and the food...don't let me start :D


The Spanish contingency: second from left is Juan Guardiola, the exhibition curator, as well as his other staff/museum folks (plus Richie).


Obligatory hotel photos. I travel all around the world and wound up taking tons of photos of...my hotel room. Funny, huh?






My hotel room was soooooo lovely--every morning I would wake up and throw back the curtains to sunlight streaming in and a cobblestone street in front, a park and playground, and cafes on the streets.


The view outside my hotel room--ahhhhhhh!


Spanish TV is a hoot--especially late night shows...I was morbidly fascinated by Tara Reid, who showed up in all her horrible glory on one show, slurry and translated with a voiceover. It was like she was seriously drugged or drunk, it was a total trainwreck and I couldn't take my eyes off of her...

The exhibition and opening was the last night I was there--the next morning I had to fly out, and I didn't get to bed until 3am and then couldn't even fall asleep. Despite being there for five days, I never fully adjusted my internal timeclock.

Spain was amazing. Must go back...! I wasn't such a great tourist in that I don't take lots of photos of everything (I get self-conscious about looking like a dork). But I guess I'll be more of a dork the next time around :). Pretty much every night was about going out and getting rather drunk, and then eating eating during the day, and then talking and debating about art, and then it was all over and now I'm back. Damn, what a week!