geometry strikes back
Whoa. Check this out: lately I've been getting interested in how to draft some serious patterns--beyond just fitting on a mannequin or myself, which usually results in me just making garments my own size. I bought a great book off of Amazon titled "How to Make Your Own Patterns" by Rene Bergh and I highly recommend it. Lots of flat diagrams of how to make different clothes for women, and some of the best explanations on how to "transfer darts" (It's hard to explain, but if you're really in to these things, you'll stumble upon it). It doesn't even matter that the clothing they show is outdated (80s it looks like), since it's more about the pattern construction technique anyhow.
So I'm beefing up on things, rummaging around the internet as well, checking out pattern making sites, when i stumble across this diagram which takes me into a nightmare vortex of high school geometry meets astronomy...
And then this text:
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Bust 90 cms, Waist 62 cms, Hips 98 cms, x/back 36 cms, Nape/Waist 40 cms
* AB = Nape/Waist
* AD = 1/2AB; AE = 1/2 AD; BC = 20 cms (standard measurement)
* AY = 7 cms; XY = 2 cms; Curve A to X
* DK = 1/2 Bust + 3 cms. DH = one third Bust
* HJ = 1/2 HK
* EG = 1/2 x/back; PGF is parallel to AD
* PQ = 1/2 PH
* Square up and down from K to Z, S and U
* Af is parallel to DK
* HL = 6.5 cms; strike up Lg to cut Af
* ga = 2.5 cms
* ab = 1.5 cms
* bz is parallel to gf
* Join Ea and extend to cut bZ at c
* ac = bust allowance
* M is 2.5 cms below the cutting of GF by Ea; join MX
* Na on Ea = MX minus 1.5 cms
* Jd is parallel to Kf
* de on Nc = ac
* Connect Jd and extend Je to equal the measurement of Jd This gives the bust dart
* RZ = cZ; curve cR to give front neckline
* NQGM is the armhole. Draw in using HN as guideline
* Join N to e extended, to complete front shoulder
* Qq is parallel to AC
* ST = 2.5 cms
* UV = 2.5 cms
* BT is the Waistline
* CV is the Hipline, when completed
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I know this makes sense to someone, I just can't figure out who. It's from this site. Yow. Is this what they teach in fashion design school?
5 Comments:
i have a great book called metric pattern cutting by winifred aldrich. the blocks are more simple but endlessly flexible. does your book have a standard body measurement chart of some kind? if it does it should help you unlock the mysteries of drafting. at least a little. i think i had to draft blocks like six times before it started to fit ok. trial and error and error and error!
i can recommend a pile of books if you're serious about this! i have one that looks like it's from the 50s or 60s but it's REALLY easy to understand and basically says the same thing but in a slightly easier to understand manner.
p.s. i see you have the RSS feed going! for some reason, it doesn't quite work. i clicked on the button and it gave me an error message. pete (my programmer husband) suggested i put "atom.xml" after that last slash instead of what's there, and it worked. just thought i'd let you know.
Thanks for the book recommendation. I have been wanting to make my own patterns for a while too.
Your upcoming stuff looks very exciting! :)
hi sarah--i haven't yet created an actual body pattern for myself, and am rather intimidated, but perhaps it has to happen soon. i have a weird habit of denying myself my own handmade items and that must stop! i guess i'm dreading all the trial and error of getting it right :)
hey tricia! yah, i tried to fix my blogger so that my RSS feed would work, but it's still a bit dubious. i did notice that you have to manually add the "atom.xml" to the address in order for a reader to find it (thanks for the tips!), and i can't figure out why. i spent a good 2 hours monkeying around with it the other day to no avail. VERY frustating, but i suspect it has something to do with the way i have my files located on my server. argh!
melanie--i've seen you around the blogging land--looks like we have mutual internet friends :)
hehe - thanks for the link to our site www.scenography.co.uk, I must admit when i took my degree costume blocks were a headache, but you get used to them - and when it comes to making something like doublet and hose your glad you got your plans spot on!
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