I'm reposting a little questionnaire that was emailed to me from a student doing a little article on handmade/deconstructed clothing, along with the answers I gave her. For those of you already familiar with the "why" behind anti-factory, it's nothing new, but thought it also condensed some info nicely...
1. What is your favorite type of clothing to reconstruct?(i.e. sweatshirts, t-shirts, starting from scratch, etc.)
I work almost 90% of the time with tops--cotton jerseys, sweaters and sweatshirt fleece. Every now and then I venture into dresses or jackets. Stretchy fabrics are both easier to work with and fit more body types! As a rule, all my fabric is 100% recycled, which means the original garments come from thrift stores and if I use raw fabric it comes from factory overruns and "salvaged" manufacturing samples.
2. What is the most difficult thing you encounter as a seamstress?The limitations of my sewing machine! I work with a Babylock serger and a Brother sewing machine, but would really die for an industrial machine so I could work on coats and heavier-weight materials.
3. What is your overall style when creating clothing? (Or, what are the techniques that you use most?)
I love messing with different colors and textures within a single garment. Wools, lightweight jerseys, and embellishments with buttons and small details. I try to make clothes that are both avant-garde yet wearable--a little "different" but not so far-out that you couldn't wear it every day. As for the actual construction end of it, I use my serger for 90% of the work. The sewing machine is used for topstitching and small details.
4. Why do you create your own clothing?It started off as an experiment to see if I could hand-make every single item that I wore, to stop buying "products" and start being "self-sufficient". I am very fashion-conscious but was getting disturbed about the wastefulness of the garment industry (churning out masses of clothing every season) as well as the sad fact of unfair labor practices in the construction of clothing. For me it's a mix of small-time political action and even a form of emancipation from big industry.
5. Do you have any tips for beginners?Buy lots of used clothing and cut them apart at the seams to see how they were either made or how the patterns were formed. Fail a lot--it's the only way to learn. I'm self-taught and there was a steep learning curve, but if you're persistent with trying to figure it out, it'll come faster.
** About the Trend**
1. Do you think there is growing trend of people purchasing reformed or handmade clothing? Do you have any examples of why or why not?Yes, there seems to be quite a large trend right now--lots of online stores and DIY boutiques are springing up that feature handmade/reconstructed clothing. When I first started out, I worried that there wouldn't be a market for such things, but I've been proven quite wrong. A corporate example of the reconstructed "look" is what Urban Outfitters is doing with their Urban Renewal line. Also, the past few years has seen a large trend in what looks like handmade details in mass-produced clothing (hippie/boho/stitched details) and I think this has been embraced by the buying public.
The problem for me is that the "look" of handmade is being co-opted by big industry and sold for cut-rate prices. Sometimes customers have a hard time understanding that if something is unique or handmade it will cost more in order to keep the maker in business. Big companies can pay overseas workers much less and sell a similar item for half of what a local handmaker will charge.
2. Do you think more people are reconstructing/creating their own clothing? Why or why not? What evidence have you seen of this?Yes. Magazines and online websites such as Crafster.org and Cut+Paste.com are very popular, as are people who are selling DIY/handmade clothes on ebay. There's a lot out there now. Overall it's a good thing people are so interested in making their own stuff.
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